Skye Cuillin Ridge Traverse - tips and tactics

Hints and tips to help you achieve a Cuillin Ridge traverse.

The Cuillin Ridge traverse is high on many a British climbers tick list and is becoming more and more known around the world as a great adventure. The Isle of Skye isn't exactly on most peoples doorsteps though and coming up for a traverse attempt takes time, money and commitment. Ideally if you were coming up to Skye for a Cuillin Ridge traverse you would have a 7 -10 day holiday on the island, allowing you the most flexibility to be able to achieve a successful traverse. Lets be honest though most people will see the weather window that matches with their time off and go for it at the least minute, these tips and tactics are here to help improve the chances of a successful attempt on the Cuillin Ridge traverse.

Cuillin Ridge traverse ethics?

What is a true Cuillin Ridge traverse? Unless you are going for the Ridge traverse record, which does have a set of 'rules' then the simple answer is whatever you want to call it, it is your traverse after all. We have a strong set of climbing ethics in The UK but think of the Cuillin Ridge as an Alpine route, whatever gets you to the top/end safely and efficiently is a successful traverse.

Do you need to do all of the climbing pitches? That is really for you to decide but as an example, my advice would be that if you turn up to the TD gap and there are teams in front of you, use the bypass onto Sgurr Alasdair. Queuing at bottle necks like the TD gap can add a couple of hours onto your day very easily, meaning more time on your feet and your water has to last you even longer. Getting from one end to the other is the goal and there is already enough ground to cover without adding unnecessary time onto your day.

It's your traverse, go about it how ever you see fit and don't worry about other peoples opinions.

Should you go for a one day or two day traverse?

A one day or two day traverse, which is best? There isn't really a simple answer here, it may be that your time and the weather window force your hand a little. Obviously a one day traverse is a very big day out and a huge achievement in it's own right but you are going to need a perfect forecast of dry rock, a gentle breeze, not too hot and probably have a pretty good grasp of the route, so as not to waste time. Most teams going for a day traverse will head straight up to either Sgurr nan Eag or the TD gap to increase chances of success.

A two day traverse is the 'classic' way to approach the Ridge traverse and is certainly my favourite. You still need to keep moving but can move at a more relaxed pace, have the options to add some short waiting periods if the teams in front of you are close to being out of your way and lets not forget you get to spend the night out on the ridge, enjoying the Sunrise and Sunset, which I think all adds to the experience.

Which way to approach the ridge?

There are a few options here and which way you go may well be decided by your ethical approach to the Ridge or tactics due to the weather but here are the three most common ones and their pros and cons.

• Walking out to Gars-bheinn from Glen Brittle - This is the longest approach of the three but does take you out to the southern most peak on the ridge. The path on the whole is pretty good but there are a few wet sections once you pass Coir' a' Ghrunnda. It takes about 3 hours to the summit of Gars-bheinn and the final push up through the Scree is a bit sole destroying but the view along the whole Ridge from this southern summit is absolutely amazing. It is a long way and can be wet underfoot but offers lots of oppurtunities to drink on the way before finally filling with water at about 550m. It also means you can start when you want and if you just have the one vehicle it is easier to collect from Glen Brittle.
• Walking into Coir' a' Ghrunnda to start at Sgurr nan Eag - This approach is slightly shorter at about 2.5 hours to the summit of Sgurr nan Eag and certainly has lots of advantages. The approach is on a good path and dry rock and you can fill with water in Coir' a' Ghrunnda or slightly higher if you know where you are looking. Drop your bags on the Ridge and walk out and back to Sgurr nan Eag. The only real down side to this is you don't get to go to the far southern end of the Ridge. Some guidebooks talk about heading out and back from here to Gars-bheinn but I honestly don't think it is worth it.
• Catching the boat into Coruisk - This is a great way to approach the Ridge and adds a real sense of adventure but with the first boat not until 9 am and the fact you either need two vehicles or to pay for a very expensive taxi ride, it already puts you on the back foot with the late start and extra logistic required, I feel for most people it isn't the best option.

What about water?

If you are in a position to have the time to drop some water at your intended bivi site then I would advice it. It will only take you about 3 hours there and back to get upto An Dorus or Sgurr na Banachdaich and will greatly improve your chances of success.

If you don't have the time for this then you need to plan to bivi as close to some water as possible so you have enough water for food and drink and importantly to rehydrate. I see many parties failing due to dehydration, probably just as many as with poor fitness. Most parties will look to bivi around the half way mark, which is somewhere between Sgurr na Banachdaich and An dorus, there are loads of bivi sites along this section but few with easy and predictable access to water. For the most accessible water your best options are:

• Coire na Banachdich - There is a stream that starts at an attitude of roughly 750m (GR44059 21608) which is very reliable but tricky to find with out visibility. It does mean a descent off the ridge but means you can drink to your hearts content without worry. It is possible to bivi a bout 100m further up the Coire on a vague spur ( many bivi sights already there). You could choose to bivi there but descend to have your evening meals and then carry enough water back up to the bivi for breakfast and day 2.
• Coir' an Eich - This burn is right next to the usual foot path that is used to approach Sgurr na Banachdaich. (GR43523 22693) It offers a very easy, non techncal descent to get water and greats views to enjoy the sunset. As wth the last bivi you could descend to have your evening meal and then take enough weter for the rest of the traverse back up to a higher bivi close to the summit of Sgurr na Banachdaich.
• An Dorus - One of the low points of the Ridge and again has a very reliable water source, how far down you have to go will depend on the weather leading up to your traverse. Above you have the option to descend for dinner and then bivi higher up.
• Bealach na Glaic Moire - The lowest point of the whole ridge a gives a lovely grassy sleeping area with very easy access to water. You will have had to be going well to get here. One down side to this bivi is that the sheep often graze here meaning you may have to be careful about just where you get your water from.

What food to take?

It might seem like a simple question but it may be one you haven't considered. I am a big fan of a warm evening meal and a warm breakfast to get me started on a cold morning and don't forget a cup of tea. This is very much about comfort for me but I may traverse the Cuillin Ridge half a dozen times each summer so I take what comfort I can get. This does mean carrying a stove and gas along with the dehydrated meals and means that you will need more water at a bivi site to be able to cook with. The other option is the cold option, taking breakfast bars and whatever you like for your evening meal, maybe a few extra sandwiches etc.

It's not a big saving but it might be one to consider.

What rack do you need?

This is a big question for many folks and obviously a trick balance between having enough rack to feel you can climb confidently but not so much that is slows you down. The hardest pitches on the route are about V. Diff/Severe, so you should hopefully feel confident to be leading these pitches in trainers/boots with a fairly limited rack. The photo below shows what I would suggest for a ridge traverse and has enough to deal with most situations I have come across over the years. You can afford to reduce this rack a bit if you are familiar with the climbing sections and want to go with the minimum.

As for rope, a 40m rope is perfect. You can get away with a 35m but the best answer is probably, the rope you already have. Most people will have a single 50m or a 50m half rope that would do the job (as long as you are aware of it's limitations), I use a 40m 8.9mm triple rated rope from Decathlon.

• Nuts No. 2 - 9
• DMM Dragon cams No. 2, 3 and 4
• 4x extendable quickdraws
• 3x 120cm slings with screw gates
• 1x 240cm sling with screw gate
• Belay device and screw gate
• A couple of Prusik's on a screw/snap gate
• A couple of lengths of tat (most of the abseils are usually already there)
• 40m rope